brakes.

[Lancimus]

I guess I just want the "low-down" on rotors. Advantages and disadvantages to have them slotted, drilled, or drilled and slotted...?

[MN Probe GT]

I've always thought the best thing to do was get regular stock rotors, but get some really nasty metal pads. They will destroy your rotors faster, but they are cheap.

[TyBrones87]

http://shane86.mnscc.net/BrokeBrake.jpg

Go with brembo blanks. The slotted/cross drilled rotors are pointless

[andrewpgt]

http://shane86.mnscc.net/BrokeBrake.jpg

Go with brembo blanks. The slotted/cross drilled rotors are pointless

I'm with you on this one. get the blanks. the cost a little more that are way worth it:thup: my rotors did the same thing but not to that extent. mine where just starting to sprider crack around every hole drilled in them. (guess thats what happenes when you get them really hot! :lol: )

andrew

[defiler]

Slotted ones eat away at your pads quicker. Cross-drilled ones crack, like pictured.

You can get Brembo blanks for about 50/apeice for most older cars.

The slotted/cross drilled rotors are pointless
Well, they're not really pointless, but the cons heavily outweigh the pros.

[SlaveLabor]

Well, they're not really pointless, but the cons heavily outweigh the pros.

So that's why almost every high performance cars come STOCK with crossdrilled rotors? ( I.E. ferrari, porsche)

If you look at the pictures you can tell that those rotors were really old, and that shouldn't happen if you are dumb enough to keep driving when you start to see any cracks at all.
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BIG DICK TIGHT (http://www.fucktube.com/categories/267/tight/videos/1)

[TyBrones87]

Here's a quick breakdown of the different brake rotors. Its a pretty good read.

http://www.mnsportcompacts.net/forum/showpost.php?p=663273&postcount=6

[defiler]

Here's a quick breakdown of the different brake rotors. Its a pretty good read.

http://www.mnsportcompacts.net/forum...73&postcount=6
The rest of that thread on brakes was pretty good too:thup:

[Lancimus]

Here's a quick breakdown of the different brake rotors. Its a pretty good read.

http://www.mnsportcompacts.net/forum/showpost.php?p=663273&postcount=6

I'm not doubting what the guy is saying, but it all seems pretty bias, or opinionated to me..

[defiler]

I don't get how you can get that the link he posted was opinionated or biased...:confused:

[andrewpgt]

And since you're SUCH an expert on metallurgy, how is it you can tell those are old? Because they have rust on them? News flash, this is MN. Your rotors start to look like that in less than a year.


I would also like to add to this. you are also adding two dissimiliar metals together. steel and aluminium. together they tend to rush very fast when they have direct contact with each other.

thats all I would like to say. I'm not on anyones side with this thread. just my two cents worth.

A-

[SlaveLabor]

Of course you're uneducated on the subject, and were dumb enough to buy some ebay knockoffs for your own ride, so why the hell do we care what you have to say about them?


Thats right, they are STOCK. Not some gayss aftermarket knockoffs that are horseshit quality, like your own. Come back in a few years and then you can talk about it, when yours are trashed too.

And since you wouldnt know, some have failures like that in the first 10,000-25,000 miles or so. There are many documented cases of it. Unacceptable is what it is. You're one of the few people that Ive heard that are foolish enough to think there's nothing wrong with buying them.


And since you're SUCH an expert on metallurgy, how is it you can tell those are old? Because they have rust on them? News flash, this is MN. Your rotors start to look like that in less than a year.


So it may be that i dont know much about brakes, and how efficent my brakes are, or what exact metal is used in my rotors. Yes, i did buy my ebay rotors, and yes there is a chance for failure in the first 10,000-25,000 miles. I'm not saying my rotors are the shit, i know there not the best, but it something that i wanted to experience to findout what they are really worth/if they are worth anything. I think it's funny how everytime someone who possibly might say something against your opion, and i haven't even told you that YOU are wrong in anyway, you come back and act like a complete fucking duche bag to every single person....day....after day after day after day. You dont know how to lighten up a bit, you sit there and take every little thing so personal. My comment that i left was just a point, even the article you are agreeing with says that they put money into development and test/perfect them, giving them better braking. I'm not trying to say that i'm right, or your wrong. Yeah maybee my rotors are shit, fuck if i care. they are working fine now, if they fail i will just get diffrent ones, but until that day comes i think they are perfetly fine. I live, i learn, i move on.:shy:

Lancimus i'm sorry to do this on your thread. If you want my opion just go stock, might be a safer, more consumer friendlier way to go. :thup:
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Teen anal (http://www.fucktube.com/categories/1018/anal/videos/1)

[defiler]

I think it's funny how everytime someone who possibly might say something against your opion, and i haven't even told you that YOU are wrong in anyway,

Your response sure didnt seem like that. Saying that cars come stock with them would be saying that they are a great item to have.:confused:



And sorry if you get all butthurt from the way I post my disagreements. This is the Internet. I'm not here to be your best pal. I wont go out of my way to make sure I dont hurt anyone's feelings in a statement. Not to mention why even care how I sound? It's the internet... you shouldnt take this seriously...

[andrewpgt]

Lancimus i'm sorry to do this on your thread. If you want my opion just go stock, might be a safer, more consumer friendlier way to go. :thup:

this is for lancimus. Ok, this is what I want to tell you. denpending on what you want to do with your brakes is what you should do with them. if you want to beat the living stuff out of them. I would recommend getting something that will handle them. I.E. autocrossing/road racing go with upgraded brake pads/rotors. if you want something that will just stop better. upgrade the pads and stock rotor. if you want something just to replace. normal pads and rotors.

the idea behind slotted rotors is this. everytime the grove crosses the pad it will cut a freah pad. this will keep them from glazing which cuts down on stopping power. thus stopping quicker. but you run through pads faster.

the idea behind cross-drilled rotors is this. every time you hit the brakes you make heat. everybody knows this. but cross-drilled will allow the gas that is made when you hit the brakes to excape through the holes helping the pads and rotors keep cooler and allowing you use the brakes harder. but with this you run the risk of the picture that has been posted already.

ok, there! said and done. I don't want to hear anybody bitching at each other anymore. this isn't the place to do it.

Andrew

[SlaveLabor]

And sorry if you get all butthurt from the way I post my disagreements. This is the Internet. I'm not here to be your best pal. I wont go out of my way to make sure I dont hurt anyone's feelings in a statement. Not to mention why even care how I sound? It's the internet... you shouldnt take this seriously...

Cool, back to the subject.
________
Public Black (http://www.fucktube.com/categories/929/black/videos/1)

[Lancimus]

this is for lancimus. Ok, this is what I want to tell you. denpending on what you want to do with your brakes is what you should do with them. if you want to beat the living stuff out of them. I would recommend getting something that will handle them. I.E. autocrossing/road racing go with upgraded brake pads/rotors. if you want something that will just stop better. upgrade the pads and stock rotor. if you want something just to replace. normal pads and rotors.

the idea behind slotted rotors is this. everytime the grove crosses the pad it will cut a freah pad. this will keep them from glazing which cuts down on stopping power. thus stopping quicker. but you run through pads faster.

the idea behind cross-drilled rotors is this. every time you hit the brakes you make heat. everybody knows this. but cross-drilled will allow the gas that is made when you hit the brakes to excape through the holes helping the pads and rotors keep cooler and allowing you use the brakes harder. but with this you run the risk of the picture that has been posted already.

ok, there! said and done. I don't want to hear anybody bitching at each other anymore. this isn't the place to do it.

Andrew

thank you, that is the response I was looking for...

[Speedy]

BUT if you keep up routine maitinence & check - ups you'll be able to catch it before it gets that bad ... hopefully.

Speaking of brakes, my girl christinas cutlass needs them horribly, so we took her fiance for a ride because aparently the grinding metal on metal sound or the other noises aren't hint enough. We both went 'see it's horrible & needs to be fixed!!!" His response? "Easy fix" & turns up the radio!! :lol: thought it was funny for a guy to do that.

[andrewpgt]

thank you, that is the response I was looking for...

NO PROBLEM

Andrew

[James'89GT]

Slotted ones eat away at your pads quicker. Cross-drilled ones crack, like pictured.

Well, they're not really pointless, but the cons heavily outweigh the pros.

Defiler is right in all the above but the saying is true "that you get what you pay for" but if you wanna stop quick slotted or crossdrilled are the way to go but be careful and buy decent ones. Even Ebay has decent cross drilled and slotted rotors! You just really have to know what you are buying because all cross drilled and slotted rotors can only take so much heat/abuse just as normal rotors can take. And Mitch all brakes usually need replaced every 25,000 miles no mater what you buy in my experience on the job taught me because we all do not drive like grandma's. I will leave you with this piece of advice though: When I see a cop just sitting there and clocking people to see if they are speeding I know I wanna get down to the speed limit as fast as I can!

[James'89GT]

If you 2nd gen guys really wanna do your brakes right check out this

http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?t=1701223022

Its cheap too!

[TyBrones87]

I wish that was the big brakes I've been wanting, I would be all over that conversion for those prices!!

[defiler]

I wish that was the big brakes I've been wanting, I would be all over that conversion for those prices!!
What kit have you been wanting? I dont know of too many others (At least rotor-wise. I know there's the Porsche*supposedly* or 3kgt caliper upgrades...)

[pcmmelite]

If you 2nd gen guys really wanna do your brakes right check out this

http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?t=1701223022

Its cheap too!

That seems like a good deal. It does look retarded if you start getting above 17" wheels with stock size rotors.

[defiler]

That seems like a good deal
Maybe... depends on what you consider a good deal...


I mean, it's 100 for the calipers;

Add 30 for the machine work on the S2k rotors
Add 250 or so for a full set of rotors

And you're around 400 bux, just to get bigger rotors...

[TyBrones87]

What kit have you been wanting? I dont know of too many others (At least rotor-wise. I know there's the Porsche*supposedly* or 3kgt caliper upgrades...)

The Millenia S 2 piston calipers coupled with 3000gt rotors. AKA Reidspeed big brake kit.

I thought mbolin's kit used stock calipers? Do you need to get new ones or what? Thats pretty much why I would rather get the reidspeed kit, bigger rotors and calipers as opposed to mbolin's bigger rotors kit with the stock caliper relocation bracket.

[defiler]

I thought mbolin's kit used stock calipers?
Correct.

The Millenia S 2 piston calipers coupled with 3000gt rotors. AKA Reidspeed big brake kit
Why not modify is a little and get the 3kgt calipers on there too?

[TyBrones87]

The reason I want the reidspeed kit is because of the testimonials of the man who makes the kits, and from the testimonials of Dan[sac]. His sn on PT is d15b7 or something like that. He is an actual race driver, who has a civic for his primary car and a probe for his backup car. He claims to have ZERO brake fade ever on the track with the probe. He is actually trying to figure out a way to put the Probes brake setup on his civic.

His accounts of his brake kit seem very valid, with incar videos showing his races and the Probe seems to stop better than most of the cars on the track. As far as I know these are the only race proven big brake kits out there.

I would like some more info on the 3000gt conversion tho. They are very beefy, but nobody that I know of makes brackets to do the conversion and I've never heard any testimonials of the 3kgt conversion.

Just do a search for "reidspeed" on pt and I'm sure you'll find tons of info on these suckers. They impress the hell out of me

[defiler]

I would like some more info on the 3000gt conversion tho. They are very beefy, but nobody that I know of makes brackets to do the conversion and I've never heard any testimonials of the 3kgt conversion.
Try talking to 95PGTTech on PT. He has them done on his car.

[TyBrones87]

Try talking to 95PGTTech on PT. He has them done on his car.

As does somebody on this board. Too bad he doesn't post here anymore...

[defiler]

Who was that? Shrep or someone?

[TyBrones87]

zenmasterzex

[defiler]

http://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=148865


Found a good write-up/discussion on MX6.com here for the 3kgt upgrade... looks pretty good:tup: