I want my factory sub working again!

[MN Probe GT]

OK....I thought about my sub situation and I think it would cost too much money to make a new box and get a new sub and amp and everything. So......I want my old factory sub working again. What can I do to make this work? I have already bypassed the amp and it sounds really shitty if I don't (amplified twice). Is there any way I can send the wires into the amp which splits it into 4 speakers + non amped-sub(goes to sub amp) without amplifying the 4 speakers? (because they are already amplified by the CD player) What can I do without running all new wires?

[rebby]

i wonder if you could run your preamps into your factory amp somehow??? i have the wiring diagrams for EVERYTHING if you wanna check it out and go from there..

[MN Probe GT]

Well.....that might work.....my preamps are RCA and the sub amp input is shitty speaker wire, but I'm sure that would work somehow. But I don't want to run new wires, but if that's what I have to do............Then I could use my low pass with my sub out. :D

[Eric94GT]

Your sub amp is powered by the speaker amp. If it is bipassed, then you aren't getting any power to the sub amp. The factory sub is an 8" paper woofer, like the factory speakers minus the cones on them. If you arent looking for much bump, but a little, you might be able to buy an 8" (good) sub and stick it in there, then buy a new low power amp and run it to the woofer. Or you could buy a 5-channel amp and run it to all four speakers and to the sub.

[MN Probe GT]

I know how the thing works, I'm just trying to figure how to make it work when I've already bypassed the factory amp. And I believe it's a 6.5" sub. I don't want a lot more than that sub puts out. I liked it when it was working. I'm so used to no bass at all.

[rebby]

Originally posted by Eric94GT
Your sub amp is powered by the speaker amp. If it is bipassed, then you aren't getting any power to the sub amp. The factory sub is an 8" paper woofer, like the factory speakers minus the cones on them. If you arent looking for much bump, but a little, you might be able to buy an 8" (good) sub and stick it in there, then buy a new low power amp and run it to the woofer. Or you could buy a 5-channel amp and run it to all four speakers and to the sub.

eric,
see my post about using the preouts to run the factory amp... is this doable??? i can't see why it wouldn't work...

[MN Probe GT]

It would probably work, but I'd have to run new wires. I don't really want to do that......

[Eric94GT]

they are pre-outs which mean there isn't any amperage coming out of them. they have to go through an amplifier. if you are going to run them through the sub amp, the speaker amp cannot be bi-passed because that amp supplied the power to the sub amp.

[rebby]

Eric,
i think that you are missing what i am saying...

run the preamp to the factory amp. that will power the sub.. w/just a little help from a wire cutter you can make this work... then use the amp bypass for the speakers only...

i think that this would work but it would require a little bit of custom wiring (the majority being around the factory amp) & a lead from the deck to the factory amp which isn't a huge deal @ all...

[MN Probe GT]

The input for the factory amp is an 8 wire harness though......

[rebby]

yeah it will be... cause you got 4 speakers... you just spit your one pair of pre-amps....

[Eric94GT]

sorry, I'll shut up now

[rebby]

Originally posted by Eric94GT
sorry, I'll shut up now

okay??? i didn't mean to offend you... i'm still not sure to say what i'm thinking though :D

[Eric94GT]

wasn't offended, i shoud've put a smiley after it to show it's all cool. one for that post :D ; and one for this post :D.

[domino]

this is a very easy fix
first hook the factory amp back up like it should be then run new wires directly to your speakers and disconnect the connection from the factory amp at the speaker. this way you are sending signal to the factory amp but are powering the full range speakers from your deck. kapiech?;)

[Eric94GT]

he said he didn't want to run any wire. otherwise, i'd say sounds good. i hope i never have to run wire to the front speakers!

[rebby]

Originally posted by Jeremy Dominick
this is a very easy fix
first hook the factory amp back up like it should be then run new wires directly to your speakers and disconnect the connection from the factory amp at the speaker. this way you are sending signal to the factory amp but are powering the full range speakers from your deck. kapiech?;)

won't your sub work like ass if you send the amp an amped signal???

why not just run a preout to the amp for the sub and then make your own "amp bypass" for the speakers???

then the only new wire that you would need to run would be the preout to the amp which is very easy....

[domino]

because the factory deck does not put a preout out its a low voltage signal but higher then preout level

[rebby]

Originally posted by Jeremy Dominick
because the factory deck does not put a preout out its a low voltage signal but higher then preout level

i c... won't the signal from the aftermarket deck be a little too much for the amp though???

the voltage that the factory deck puts out is more than 4??

[MN Probe GT]

:mad: I had both rear quarter panels off and looked at the 2 amps, but I couldn't figure anything out. Whats worse is I can't get the left rear quarter panel back on right. And if I want to get the right on by midnight I better start now......(7:40pm) Any ideas before I put it on? I don't know what to do.....I miss that poor little baby sub......it was my size.......:(

[Eric94GT]

how did you get the quarter panels off?? I'd like to get mine off so I can actually get some sound dampening in there right. I thought they were welded on.

[MN Probe GT]

well....the interior ones.....
Here is what I got in an e mail, but I don't get it.....

"I've retro-fitted the factory sub into the 1st and 2nd gen Probes. I learned
from experience how to make the *stock* pieces work. The factory 2nd gen sub
has it's amp on the driver's side in the same relative spot as the main amp,
below and behind the speaker. Now, you have to get a signal to that amp at
the same level as what was coming out of the original main amp. I would
suggest re-installing the original radio, temporarily, and un-bypassing the
main amp, and then measuring the voltage of those wires. The GN wire is your
+ wire, the GN/BK is your - wire, the GN is the amp mute.
Now you'll have to get a signal from the new head unit. I would suggest
finding a cheap crossover unit and take the lower frequency signals from the
front speakers.
One of those wires is the amp mute. I do not know how that works. What I
think happens is that it mutes the thump you would ordinarily hear when it
is turned on. The other two wires are your + and - wires for the signal to
the sub amp."

[Eric94GT]

hmmmm......I dont get it either.

I really wouldnt bother with it. If you are looking to use that so you don't haev any bulky sub boxes back there, then I would buy a good 6.5" woofer and an appropriate wattage amplifier and put the amp right behind the woofer in that small area.

[Eric94GT]

I got my factory equilizer working as an analizer thing! None of those sites that explain it work. I messed around with the wires and made a few educated guesses and I got it working! I didn't even have to cut any factory harnesses like the other ones tell you to do. I put two leads off of the positive left and right front speaker wires in the wiring harness and then I put each lead into one of the center holes on the factory harness that would normally go into the factory radio, Then I left the other harnesses in the equ!. It works and looks good.

-----------
| * * * |
| * * * | Facotry Wiring harness, end that goes into radio.
| |
-----------

Another goos ascii drawing! You put the two leads into the two center holes on the factory harness

[rebby]

Originally posted by Eric94GT
hmmmm......I dont get it either.

I really wouldnt bother with it. If you are looking to use that so you don't haev any bulky sub boxes back there, then I would buy a good 6.5" woofer and an appropriate wattage amplifier and put the amp right behind the woofer in that small area. that would probably save you a huge headache and the cost would be minimal..

[MN Probe GT]

But it would be a lot of work that my lazy ass doesn't want to do. Damn ford........

[Eric94GT]

A lot of work? Yeah right.

I could run an amp power cord and two rca cables to the back of the car in maybe an hour. And have it back together in a half-hour. It would take more work to get the factory sub working, and a few headaches when none of the speakers work when you heard that mysterious snap sound. :D

[MN Probe GT]

I went to audio king to see about some harness that's supposed to keep the factory sub working. But they've never heard of anything like that. All they know about is the amp bypass. Purple probe dude was telling me about something that I could get. Could you be more specific? What do I need? Maybe I could come down to where you work and figure it out?

[rebby]

purple probe dude???

you mean dave, right??

[MN Probe GT]

yes....I was thinking dave, but I didn't want to screw his name up.......

[rebby]

speaking of "purple probe dude", i want my omni sensor... then again, so does everybody else that ordered one :mad:

[MN Probe GT]

What? :tup:

[rebby]

Originally posted by MN Probe GT
What? :tup: the omni sensor is a plug in module for my alarm.. it is basically just a dual zone shock sensor... they are on nation wide backorder..