HELP!!! My Brakes Are Grinding

[Eric94GT]

My brakes are making a metal on metal noise now, even when i'm not pressing on the brakes. I'm going to replace the pads very soon but I was wondering how you exactly check the pad's. I lost my Haynes manual so I cant look at that. Another question is about the actual chaning of the pads. My brake fluid was really low and I added it to the top. I am guessing it was low because the piston on the brakes are pretty close to the rotor. When I replace the pads and I push the piston out, will this cause the brake fluid to overflow from the resivoir??? How much of a PITA is it to bleed our brakes? If someone wants to come over and help me out that'd be awesome. :tup:

Eric

[domino]

sounds like metal on metal? pads are gone if you need rotors I have the ones I took off mine like new cheap too!!!! shoot me a price

[Eric94GT]

rotors are fine, right now at least. at autopartsgiant they have OE (AutoSpecialty) pads for $22.76 Front and $16.76 Rear. Anybody know of any local place that stocks the pads that has them for cheaper or close to that price?

[MN94ProbeGT]

I have raybestes ceramic brakes on my car. They were originally 140.oo but i gots them for 42.00 with a parts plus account. Very good and little brake dust!!

[domino]

bumper to bumper pepboys and checker all stock em
and have diff quality levels

[Eric94GT]

this sucks. i think its just locking up from the problems the '94's have. it sucks because i'm not sure about it. my brakes were squeeling really bad before this happened, probably a feeler guage tellig me to replace the pads. I checked the pads last night and the outer one didn't look bad, i couldn't really tell if the inner one was bad. i know nothing about brakes or really how to check them.

one thing i did notice though is that it was somewhat hard to rotate the wheel when the car was lifted up. i could still turn it, just not as easily as the rest.

[Russki]

After a trip, is that rotor hotter than the other ones? check, if it is, then the breaks are rubbing against the rotor. I would replace them asap.

[domino]

Originally posted by Eric94GT
this sucks. i think its just locking up from the problems the '94's have. it sucks because i'm not sure about it. my brakes were squeeling really bad before this happened, probably a feeler guage tellig me to replace the pads. I checked the pads last night and the outer one didn't look bad, i couldn't really tell if the inner one was bad. i know nothing about brakes or really how to check them.

one thing i did notice though is that it was somewhat hard to rotate the wheel when the car was lifted up. i could still turn it, just not as easily as the rest.

is this a front or rear wheel??

[Eric94GT]

its the rear left one. and gennadiy, no im not stupid enough to touch a rotor after driving the car :lol:

[domino]

sounds like your e-brake is sticking pull the wheel off and tap on the lever with a hammer and douse it with wd-40

[Russki]

Originally posted by Eric94GT
its the rear left one. and gennadiy, no im not stupid enough to touch a rotor after driving the car :lol:

It would be funny if u did:lol:
but that's not what i meant, spit on it and if it boils the spit off quicker than the other ones, it's hotter:rolleyes:

[Eric94GT]

well, gennadiy and i took off the calipers and rotors from both rear wheels and the left rear outer pad was fine but the inner one was completely gone and the rotor is un-salvageable :( . I ordered two new rotors for the rear from napa for about $25 each, they are the cheap economy ones and I also got premium pads. When I get some more money, i'll hopefully be able to put some more money into them and get better ones. BTW, the right rear pads were fine and so was the rotor, i'm still replacing that one though.

[Eric94GT]

well napa fuc*ed up the order and i only got one rotor in. now i'm gonna have to wait till noon tomorrow and hope the other rotor comes ups like they said it would and because of it im gonna be late for work!!! :D

[potopa]

Your pads are unevenly worn, due to your calaper not being able to "float" properly. As you brake and release both sides of the calaper should release, not just the outer. I am not a Probe expert (just a friend of Curt's) so I don't know the exact geometry of the brake setup on your car, so I will be generic. anyone, feel free to elaborate.

The first thing to do is clean the calaper with brake cleaning fluid. These things stick do to crap getting in them.

The second thing to do is to ensure that all moving parts move correctlly, and there is not an exessive ammount of rust.

The third thing to do is to get some dry silicone, and put it in your sliding bolts/float pin, or whatever mechanism the brake has for floating. This will make a smooth glasslike surface for it to float on, and not cause the problem again. Do not use white grease, or something like that, it only attracks brake dust and other crap and will make the problem worse.

Continue the brake rebuild.

Have fun.

P.S.

Yes I am kicking myself for admitting friendship to curt, oh well.

[Eric94GT]

well, the caliper would not come apart at all so i disconnected the brake lines and put it in a vise, heated it up and started bangin' on it. the pin broke and i am now getting a new caliper tomorrow morning :lol:

Total Costs From Seized Caliper:

Premium Brake Pads (Rear) : $45
Two Economy Rotors : $52
New Caliper : $80
Brake Parts Cleaner, Anti Squeel Stuff, etc : $15
TOTAL: About $200 after shipping, tax and other crap

[rebby]

i don't have any problems... do a rear drum conversion... :D

[Eric94GT]

Originally posted by rebby
i don't have any problems... do a rear drum conversion... :D

:rolleyes:


and you should do a V6 swap... :D

[Russki]

Originally posted by rebby
i don't have any problems... do a rear drum conversion... :D
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Drums Suck!!!!

[rebby]

Originally posted by GV93GT

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Drums Suck!!!! that is why i will be doing a disk conversion...

[domino]

you bone head!!! there is a blot on the back side of the caliper that you remove and then you turn out a screw and viola!!
never press open a rear caliper

[Eric94GT]

i think you're thinking of the piston, not the pin.

[Eric94GT]

Well, its finally working again. I said the hell with NAPA and called some junkyards looking for a left rear caliper and i finally found a place in Ham Lake that had one and would sell it for $50. So I drove up there in the Mini-Van and got it.

Its all put back together without too many difficulties. I bled the rear brakes and the nastiest stuff came out. I'll probably bleed the entire system this weekend when I check on the front pad wear. I hope to get some slotted rotors eventually and this setup should get me by for a while.

I finally drove my car again after a full week of sitting in the garage on jack stands. :D :D :D :tup:

[tracer bullet]

Heh, I had the same problems. I think all four calipers were replaced by 100,000 miles. The rear ones locked up with the parking brake piece, the front ones had the pins sieze up like you mentioned. Sucks! I suppose that's what happens with like 8 years of Minnesota salted winter driveing.

I did the calipers, rotors, pads, added stainless steel brake lines, and refilled the entire system. Man! what a huge difference. Made me wonder how I dealt with it before, seeing how obviously bad it had gotten.

[Eric94GT]

the used caliper i got at the "store" is locking up now at the parking brake end of it. I can get it unlocked by reaching around the tire and pulling that piece out but what a PITA, i cant use my parking brake anymore.

[rebby]

Originally posted by Eric94GT
the used caliper i got at the "store" is locking up now at the parking brake end of it. I can get it unlocked by reaching around the tire and pulling that piece out but what a PITA, i cant use my parking brake anymore. man i'm telling ya.. rear drum conversion :lol:

[Eric94GT]

no thanks :tdown: , I think im just gonna spend a grand and get some bremo brakes :lol: yeah right. When I get some money actually, probably next summer, I have quite a bit of stuff I need to do. The tops on the list right now are exhaust, catco cat, nitrous express nos system.

[rebby]

Originally posted by Eric94GT
no thanks :tdown: , I think im just gonna spend a grand and get some bremo brakes :lol: you mean brembo... get brembo's just don't get the big brake kit.. just get the slotted/cross-drilled ones...

[Eric94GT]

Originally posted by rebby
you mean brembo... get brembo's just don't get the big brake kit.. just get the slotted/cross-drilled ones...

thats still probably too much money

[rebby]

Originally posted by Eric94GT


thats still probably too much money $115/pair last i saw.

[Eric94GT]

is that for just the rotor? If i did a complete brake job on the entire car, I would replace all the calipers and rotors. Just not with brembo.

How can I get the e-brake part of the rear left caliper to stop locking up? Its really annoying and it sucks because I use the e-brake when I am starting off in a race so I dont have the foot on the brake pedal and on the gas instead. Now I cant do that because the e-brake will lockup when I pull on it. I could pull the e-brake and when the race is started get out of my car, reach around the rear wheel and unlock the caliper then get back in the car and go and hopefully i'm racing a crx or civic :lol:

[rebby]

$115 for the pair of front rotors only...

as for your racing problem... heel/toe it... that would be better anyway :D

[Eric94GT]

Originally posted by Eric94GT
is that for just the rotor? If i did a complete brake job on the entire car, I would replace all the calipers and rotors. Just not with brembo.

How can I get the e-brake part of the rear left caliper to stop locking up? Its really annoying and it sucks because I use the e-brake when I am starting off in a race so I dont have the foot on the brake pedal and on the gas instead. Now I cant do that because the e-brake will lockup when I pull on it. I could pull the e-brake and when the race is started get out of my car, reach around the rear wheel and unlock the caliper then get back in the car and go and hopefully i'm racing a crx or civic :lol:

i fixed the problem. i took the wheel off and started spraying hella wd40 on the e-brake arm while i had someone pull the e-brake handle up and down. works like new again :tup: