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Mazda_Power
07/13/2005, 08:39 AM
Some friends and I are in the planning stages of our race car. We aquired a 1994 Geo Prizm LSi. If some of you aren't aware the Geo Prizm is the Toyota Corolla's long lost twin that was separately from birth stop reading this post because you might not be able to help me. I'm looking to go fast on no budget. I know my way around junkyards and I'm pretty good with interchangability. For instance the Prizm LSi is the "upper class" model of the Prizm and it comes with a 1.8L engine instead of the 1.6L. That's a pretty good start since you can't make power without displacement. At this point don't be led astray, we aren't going all motor, we're turboing it. It's just that if you have 2 containers, one a pop can and the other a milk bottle the milk bottle will accept more fluid. It doesn't matter if you are boosting or not. Anyway back to the point. The 1.8L found in the Prizm is designated in Toyota land as the 7A-FE, which basically means it is a 1.8L with an economy head (16V Twin Cam with the ports staggered differently than the perfomance head, the GE). As far as I can tell the 1.8L grew in heigth from the 1.6L, the 4A-FE. So parts from the 1.6L motor would be interchangable. Which leads me to what I want to do.


Pistons

Toyota made a supercharged MR2 in the late 80's. It wasn't all that powerfull (about 145 hp), but it does have the engine designation 4A-GZE (meaning: 4A - 1.6L Block, GE - Performance Head, Z - Supercharged). The MR2 has 8.0:1 compression (good for forced induction) and I'm counting on them being forged as well.

UPDATED: THESE ARE FORGED.


Connecting Rods

I'm currently looking into the supercharged MR2 for connecting rods under the assumption that they will be a little stronger than Prizm OE. I'm not sure if the stroke is increased via crank or connecting rods. I'm hoping though the crank that way I can still use the 7A-FE block (1.8L). Toyota cranks are generally robust so it should handle some power. I haven't looked at this one personally, so we'll see.


Head

There is a motor in Japan sold in both the Levin and the Spinter Trueno called the 4A-GE. The block is the same as older 4A-GE that we got over here, but Toyota decided to do some updates on theirs to compete with Honda. The latest JDM 4A-GE features a 20 valve head design (3 intake 2 exhaust), Independant Throttle Bodies, and Variable Valve Timing. Instead of spending a bunch of cash on a heavily ported 16V head we'd rather find one of these on EBay for cheap. I've seen them go for $200-$300.


Injectors

I think we're going to have to go with 650cc injectors, but we might be able to use 550's to start with. The 2nd Gen Turbo II uses 550cc top feed injectors for it's primary ignition system. They are cheap and relitivly inexpensive and require very little modifications to fit. I think we can get a set for $80.


Intercooler

As we are trying to get away cheap on this one we are looking towards the junkyard. A few things that look like they would work well are the Isuzu NPR, Superduty, and Evo intercoolers. The Superduty has 3" inlet/oulets so it's overkill, but still an option.


Fuel Pump

Evidently a 93+ Twin Turbo Supra fuel pump is a drop in affair. That flows about the same as the Walboro 255 lph. These can be found for $50 or so.


Headgasket

Since wer'e new to tuning engines with any real power we'll probably opt for a Toda headgasket (even though NAPA might work). They retail for $180.


Turbo

This is a tough one. They aren't too common in the junkyards. The best I've found is a Garrett Super 60 (.60/.60) out of an old T-Bird. I think it's a little small. Diesel turbos (that I've seen) approach 1.00 A/R, that's WAY too big! Fisting anything is bad, turbo's especially! Unless of course you could flow that much, which we can't. So we don't know what kind of turbo to run. I guess whatever is cheap and has a .65-.75 Compressor A/R would be an option. Maybe an older diesel? Mercedes maybe? Check Volvo's and Saab's. Normally they are small, but you'll never know what you'll find.


Turbo Manifold and Charge Pipes

These will have to be custom made. You might be able to get a used TRD turbo manifold, but I doubt you could get it for less than $1000.


BOV

We're converting the Toyota MAF to a GM based MAP system, so open air BOV's are OK. :D I'm bidding on a 1st Gen DSM BOV. They can be crushed to hold up to 30 psi. Price: $10.50 as of now.


Fuel and Spark Control

We are going to try and adapt Megasquirt II to the car. We are going to swipe a Ford EDIS-4 system out of an Escort to control spark. We are going to use the Megasquirt system (which uses mostly GM sensors) to monitor MAP. That'll eliminate our MAF sensor.


Transmission

The 20V 4A-GE from Japan comes with a 5-Speed or 6-Speed LSD equipped transmission that bolts directly in. We might use a 5-Speed non LSD from a Corolla GT-S until then. Cost of Corolla transmission: FREE.

So that's it. If you find any problems or if you find something for sale or in a junkyard that you think that I might be able to use go ahead and post. Also if you have any comments or you just want to give me lots of money to buy the best of everything go right ahead an do so.


POST AWAY!

MN Probe GT
07/13/2005, 09:26 AM
Where are you going to be racing it? What type?

Splat
07/13/2005, 10:42 AM
damn son!!!

You've done your research!!!

Nothing better to do in Esko!??!

btw, when are you going to start working on the FD?

Shrep
07/13/2005, 05:12 PM
I've got a TE04H if you're interested...

Shouldbe a good fit. Originally used on 2.2's, is efficient up til 18psi, and spools very quickly. Also, the housings are about the most clockable around, so mount as you please. ;)

The WGA is still attached, and there is very little shaft play.

Mazda_Power
07/14/2005, 04:03 PM
Where are you going to be racing it? What type?

Drag. Where ever we can afford to run it. I'm not sure what class. I haven't really looked into classes.

Mazda_Power
07/14/2005, 04:04 PM
damn son!!!

You've done your research!!!

Nothing better to do in Esko!??!

btw, when are you going to start working on the FD?


When I sell the Probe. You want it? The only research I did there was to see if the MR2 pistons were forged.

Mazda_Power
07/14/2005, 04:10 PM
I've got a TE04H if you're interested...

Shouldbe a good fit. Originally used on 2.2's, is efficient up til 18psi, and spools very quickly. Also, the housings are about the most clockable around, so mount as you please. ;)

The WGA is still attached, and there is very little shaft play.

TE04H? Not T04E H-Trim? What are the specs? How many miles? What are you looking to get out of this? Remember this is a go fast cheap project.

zenmasterzex
07/14/2005, 04:12 PM
Drag. Where ever we can afford to run it. I'm not sure what class. I haven't really looked into classes.
He'll be racing me! :D j/k probably well go whoop some ass in duluth against Team Advanced!!! :yawn:

Mazda_Power
07/14/2005, 04:13 PM
Team Advanced = :tdown:

*Side Note, Jeff since you might see this, I just fixed the window on your Civic.

zenmasterzex
07/14/2005, 04:31 PM
thanks bud!!!!

Shrep
07/15/2005, 12:43 PM
you know...I don't know the specs LOL, and yep it's a TE04H. The OEM turbo from the Daytona/Conquest/Starion.

If you're interested, we can get together and you can take a look at it. I don't know what I want for it...but I'm sure we could agree on something fair for all parties. :)

Mazda_Power
07/16/2005, 11:28 PM
I've heard those are a pretty small turbo... I've never actually seen one. I might get an EVO VIII turbo with less than 20K for $100 or so...

Shrep
07/19/2005, 12:34 PM
I've heard those are a pretty small turbo... I've never actually seen one. I might get an EVO VIII turbo with less than 20K for $100 or so...That would be a steal!

Mazda_Power
08/01/2005, 09:23 PM
At any rate back on to topic. I found that the 20 Valve head wont fit on the 1.8 Liter block. So it's either use a 1.8L block and use a 4A-GE head (cheap... free in fact) or just go with a whole 1.6L 20 Valve motor and change the internals...


Hmmmmmm...